If your car’s brake lights are stuck on, or they won’t turn on at all, you might be dealing with a brake switch malfunction, code 68-1. This common trouble code can be confusing, but understanding it is the first step to getting your vehicle back to normal.
This article will explain exactly what this code means, why it happens, and how you can fix it. We’ll break down the technical details into simple, actionable steps. You’ll learn how to diagnose the problem yourself and decide if it’s a quick fix or a job for a professional.
Brake Switch Malfunction, Code 68-1
In simple terms, a Brake Switch Malfunction, Code 68-1, means your car’s computer has detected a problem with the brake light switch or its circuit. This switch is a small but crucial component located near your brake pedal. It tells your car when you’re pressing the brake, which then turns on the brake lights for other drivers to see.
When the computer sees a signal from this switch that doesn’t match what it expects—like the switch being “on” when the pedal is released, or “off” when it’s pressed—it logs code 68-1. This is a serious code because it directly affects safety. Your brake lights are a primary communication tool on the road.
What Does the Brake Light Switch Actually Do?
It’s more than just for your brake lights. This switch is a multi-tasking sensor. When you press the brake pedal, it completes an electrical circuit. This sends power to the brake lights at the back of your car. But it also sends a signal to several other control modules.
Here’s what else it affects:
- Shift Interlock: On automatic vehicles, you usually can’t shift out of “Park” unless you press the brake. The switch allows this.
- Cruise Control: Tapping the brake is the most common way to cancel cruise control. The switch sends that “cancel” signal.
- Stability Control Systems: These systems use brake input as a key data point.
- Push-Button Start: For keyless ignition, pressing the brake is often required to start the engine.
Common Symptoms of Code 68-1
You might notice this problem before you even see a check engine light. Here are the telltale signs:
- Brake lights staying on constantly, even when the car is off (this will drain your battery).
- Brake lights not illuminating at all when you press the pedal.
- Inability to shift your automatic transmission out of the “Park” position.
- Cruise control not engaging or not canceling properly.
- The check engine light or an ABS light is illuminated on your dashboard.
- On push-button start cars, the engine may not start because it doesn’t detect the brake pedal press.
Main Causes of This Malfunction
Figuring out the cause is the key to the fix. The problem usually boils down to one of a few common issues.
1. A Faulty Brake Light Switch
This is the most common culprit. The switch itself is a mechanical device with internal contacts. Over time, these contacts can wear out, get dirty, or simply fail. The switch is relatively inexpensive, so replacement is often the best solution.
2. Problems with the Electrical Connection
The switch plugs into a wiring harness. This connection can become loose, corroded, or damaged. A bent pin in the connector or some corrosion can interrupt the signal, causing the computer to see a malfunction.
3. Issues with the Brake Pedal Assembly
The switch is mounted to a bracket near the pedal. It’s adjusted so the pedal presses the switch’s plunger at the right time. If the mounting bracket gets bent or the adjustment is off, the switch won’t activate correctly. Sometimes the plastic retainer clip that holds the switch breaks.
4. Blown Fuse or Wiring Damage
While less common, a blown fuse in the brake light circuit will cause a failure. Also, the wires running to and from the switch can chafe, get pinched, or chewed by rodents, leading to a short or open circuit.
How to Diagnose and Fix Code 68-1
Before you start, you’ll need a few basic tools: a flashlight, a set of pliers or a screwdriver (depending on your car), and possibly a multimeter if you want to test electrical connections. Always disconnect the negative battery cable before working on electrical components for safety.
Step 1: Locate the Brake Light Switch
Find your brake pedal. Look up above the pedal arm, near the top where it pivots. You’ll see a small plastic or metal switch with a plunger that the pedal presses against. It will have an electrical connector plugged into it. Refer to your vehicle’s repair manual for its exact location—it can be a bit tucked away.
Step 2: Perform a Visual Inspection
Carefully examine the switch and the area around it. Look for these things:
- Is the switch securely mounted?
- Is the electrical connector fully seated and locked?
- Are there any visible cracks on the switch body?
- Check if the plastic clip holding the switch is intact.
- Look for any obvious damage to the wires.
Step 3: Test the Switch Operation (Simple Method)
Have a helper watch your brake lights while you manually press and release the switch’s plunger with your finger. You should hear a faint click. If the lights turn on and off as you work the plunger, the switch might be okay, and the problem could be with the pedal not hitting it right. If the lights don’t respond, the switch is likely bad.
Step 4: Check the Adjustment
Many switches are self-adjusting, but some older styles require manual adjustment. If the switch is loose or can be rotated, it might be out of adjustment. The plunger should be in light contact with the brake pedal lever when the pedal is fully released. Too much gap, and the lights won’t come on; too little, and they might stay on.
Step 5: Replace the Brake Light Switch
If you’ve determined the switch is faulty, replacement is straightforward.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
- Unplug the electrical connector from the old switch. You may need to press a tab to release it.
- Remove the old switch. This usually involves twisting it 90 degrees or pressing a retaining clip.
- Install the new switch in the reverse order. For self-adjusting switches, you typically push it into the mounting hole until it clicks, then pull the brake pedal back toward you to set the adjustment.
- Reconnect the battery and test the brake lights immediately.
Step 6: Clear the Trouble Code
After the repair, the code 68-1 may still be stored in the computer’s memory. You’ll need an OBD2 scanner to clear it. Once cleared, if the problem is fixed, the code should not return. If it comes back immediately, you may have missed a deeper wiring issue.
When to Call a Professional Mechanic
While this is often a DIY job, some situations warrant a pro. If you’ve replaced the switch and adjusted it but the problem persists, the issue could be in the wiring harness or a body control module. Diagnosing these requires advanced tools and knowledge. Also, if you’re not comfortable working under the dashboard or with electrical systems, it’s best to get help. A misadjusted switch can be a real safety hazard.
Ignoring a Brake Switch Malfunction, Code 68-1, is not an option. It’s a core safety issue. Driving without functional brake lights is illegal and dramatically increases your risk of being rear-ended. It can also leave you stranded if you can’t shift out of park. Addressing it quickly protects you, your passengers, and everyone else on the road.
FAQ Section
Can I drive my car with code 68-1?
It is not safe or legal to drive with malfunctioning brake lights. If your lights are stuck on, you’ll drain the battery. If they don’t work at all, you risk a collision. Have it towed or fix it immediately before driving.
How much does it cost to fix a brake switch malfunction?
The part is usually between $20 and $80. If you do it yourself, that’s the total cost. A mechanic might charge $100 to $200 for the repair, including labor and diagnosis.
Is code 68-1 the same as a brake light switch failure?
Essentially, yes. Code 68-1 specifically points to a fault in the brake switch circuit, which most often is the switch itself. It’s the computer’s way of saying it can’t trust the signal from that switch.
Will disconnecting the battery reset the code?
It might temporarily, but if the underlying problem with the switch is still there, the code will come back as soon as you press the brake pedal a few times. You need to fix the fault first, then clear the code properly.
Can a bad brake switch cause other codes?
Absolutely. Because the switch talks to multiple systems, a failure can cause related codes for the transmission shift interlock, cruise control, or even the anti-lock brake system. Fixing the main switch often clears these secondary issues too.