Hearing a strange noise from your wheel or feeling a new vibration? The problem might be in your integrated wheel end. This guide will help you fix common issues yourself. We’ll break down the diagnosis and repair into simple steps you can handle in your driveway.
An integrated wheel end combines the hub, wheel bearing, and often the ABS sensor into one sealed unit. It’s common on modern cars and trucks. When it fails, you need to replace the whole assembly. But first, you need to be sure that’s the real issue.
Integrated Wheel End
Understanding what an integrated wheel end is key to fixing it. Unlike older setups where you could repack bearings, these are pre-adjusted, sealed, and non-serviceable. They’re designed for longevity but do wear out over time. Knowing the symptoms can save you from misdiagnosing the problem.
Common Symptoms of a Failing Wheel End
Watch out for these signs. Catching them early can prevent more damage and costly repairs down the road.
- A constant humming or growling noise that gets louder with speed.
- A grinding sound when the wheel is turning.
- Excessive play or wobble in the wheel (you can check this).
- Vibration in the steering wheel or the vehicle’s floor.
- An illuminated ABS or traction control warning light.
How to Diagnose the Problem
Before you buy parts, confirm which wheel end is failing. This simple test is a good starting point.
- Safety first. Park on a level surface, set the parking brake, and chock the wheels.
- Jack up the vehicle so the suspected wheel is off the ground. Support it securely on a jack stand.
- Grab the tire at the top and bottom. Push with one hand, pull with the other. Feel for any clunking or looseness.
- Spin the wheel by hand. Listen for grinding or a rough, gritty feeling.
- If the wheel has play or makes noise, the integrated wheel end is likely bad. The side with more noise during a drive is usually the culprit.
Tools and Parts You’ll Need
Gathering everything beforehand makes the job smoother. You won’t need many specialty tools.
- New integrated wheel hub assembly (make sure it’s for your exact model).
- Socket set, breaker bar, and torque wrench.
- Jack and jack stands.
- Lug nut wrench.
- Hammer and a punch (for stubborn bolts).
- Anti-seize compound (for the new hub’s mating surface).
- Wire brush for cleaning.
Step-by-Step Replacement Guide
Follow these steps carefully. If you feel unsure at any point, it’s okay to consult a professional mechanic.
Step 1: Secure the Vehicle and Remove the Wheel
Loosen the lug nuts slightly before lifting the car. Then jack it up, place the stands, and finish removing the wheel. Place it under the vehicle for extra safety, just in case.
Step 2: Remove the Brake Caliper and Rotor
Unbolt the brake caliper (usually two bolts on the back). Don’t let it hang by the brake hose—secure it to the suspension with a bungee cord or wire. Then, slide the brake rotor off. It might be stuck; a few taps with a rubber mallet can help.
Step 3: Disconnect the ABS Sensor
Locate the electrical connector for the ABS sensor, which is part of the hub assembly. Press the tab and unplug it carefully. Sometimes the sensor is bolted separately; if so, remove that bolt.
Step 4: Remove the Hub Assembly Bolts
You’ll see three or four large bolts holding the hub to the steering knuckle. These can be very tight. Use your breaker bar to loosen and remove them. Keep track of the bolts; you’ll reuse them.
Step 5: Install the New Integrated Wheel End
Clean the mating surface on the knuckle with your wire brush. Apply a thin layer of anti-seize to prevent future seizing. Position the new hub and hand-start the bolts. Tighten them in a star pattern to the manufacturer’s specified torque with your torque wrench. This is crucial for even seating.
Step 6: Reassemble Everything
Reconnect the ABS sensor plug. Slide the brake rotor back on. Remount the brake caliper and torque its bolts. Finally, put the wheel back on, hand-tighten the lug nuts, lower the vehicle, and fully torque the lug nuts in a star pattern.
Post-Installation Checks
Don’t skip these final steps. They ensure your repair is safe and successful.
- Before driving, pump the brake pedal a few times to restore pressure.
- Take a short, slow test drive in a safe area. Listen for noises.
- Test your brakes gently at low speed first.
- Check that the ABS light on the dash goes out after starting the car.
Mistakes to Avoid
Learning from common errors makes you a better DIYer. Here’s what often goes wrong.
- Not using a torque wrench. Overtightening can damage the new hub.
- Forgetting to reconnect the ABS sensor. This will keep a warning light on.
- Using impact tools on the hub bolts, which can strip threads.
- Not checking the axle nut (on drive wheels) for proper torque if it was removed.
When to Call a Professional
Some situations require expert help. It’s not a failure to recognize a job is beyond your comfort or tool set.
- If the hub bolts are severely rusted and won’t budge without extreme force.
- When the vehicle has a pressed-in bearing design instead of a bolt-on hub (common on some older models).
- If after replacement, strange noises or vibrations persist, indicating a different problem.
- Whenever you feel the job is unsafe or you lack the proper tools, like a good torque wrench.
FAQ
How long does an integrated wheel hub last?
They typically last between 85,000 to 150,000 miles, but driving conditions have a big impact.
Can I just replace the bearing inside the integrated wheel end?
No, the unit is sealed and not designed to be taken apart. You must replace the entire hub assembly.
What causes a wheel hub to fail early?
Hitting potholes hard, driving through deep water, or faulty seals letting in dirt and moisture can shorten its life.
Is it safe to drive with a bad wheel bearing?
It is not recommended. A bearing can seize completely, causing the wheel to lock up or even come off, leading to a serious accident.
Do I need an alignment after replacing a wheel hub?
Usually not, because you didn’t disturb the suspension alignment angles. However, if you had to remove tie rods or other parts, then yes.
How much does it cost to have a mechanic replace a integrated wheel end?
Parts and labor can range from $300 to $600 per wheel, depending on your vehicle and location. Doing it yourself can cut that cost in half or more.