Learning how to use car jack stands is a fundamental skill for any DIY mechanic. It’s the critical step that keeps you safe when working underneath your vehicle. Jack stands are your essential safety backup, creating a stable support system before you go under the car. A hydraulic or scissor jack is only for lifting; it should never be trusted to hold the weight of the car while you work.
This guide will walk you through the entire process, from choosing the right stands to lowering your car safely. We’ll cover common mistakes and best practices to ensure your project is successful and, most importantly, secure.
How To Use Car Jack Stands
Using jack stands correctly involves a clear sequence of steps. Rushing or skipping any part of this process compromises your safety. Always work on a flat, level, and solid surface like concrete. Never use jack stands on dirt, gravel, or asphalt that can soften, as this can cause the stands to shift or sink.
Gather Your Tools And Perform A Safety Check
Before you start, make sure you have everything you need. This preparation prevents you from having to search for tools while the car is in the air.
- Car Jack Stands: Rated for at least the weight of your vehicle. Check your car’s gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) on the driver’s side door jamb. Use stands with a capacity higher than that weight.
- Hydraulic Floor Jack or Scissor Jack: This is for lifting only.
- Wheel Chocks: Essential for blocking the wheels that remain on the ground.
- Work Gloves and Safety Glasses: Protect your hands and eyes.
- Owner’s Manual: For locating official jack points.
Inspect your jack stands before each use. Look for cracks, significant rust, bent components, or damaged locking pins. If anything looks questionable, do not use them. A failed stand can have catastrophic consequences.
Prepare Your Vehicle And The Work Area
Park your car on a perfectly level surface and engage the parking brake firmly. For automatic transmissions, put the car in “Park.” For manual transmissions, put it in first or reverse gear.
Chock the wheels that will *remain* on the ground. If you’re lifting the front, chock the rear wheels. If you’re lifting the rear, chock the front wheels. Place the chocks snugly against the tires to prevent any rolling. This is a non-negotiable safety step that many people overlook.
Locate The Proper Jack Points And Jack Stand Points
This is the most crucial step for preventing damage to your vehicle. Your car has specific, reinforced points designed to handle the concentrated weight.
- Jack Points (For Lifting): These are the points where you place the hydraulic jack to lift the car. They are often marked by small notches or reinforced sections along the vehicle’s pinch welds (the seam under the doors), or as dedicated pads near the wheels.
- Jack Stand Points (For Supporting): Once the car is lifted, you must place the jack stands on sturdy, load-bearing parts of the frame or subframe. Common safe locations include the vehicle’s frame rails, designated stand points near the jack points, or solid axle housings. Never place a jack stand on the vehicle’s floor pan, exhaust components, suspension parts (like control arms), or the plastic body panels. These cannot support the weight and will collapse or bend.
Always consult your owner’s manual for the manufacturer’s specified points. If you’re unsure, a good rule is to place the stands as close as possible to the jack point, but on a solid, flat section of the vehicle’s structure.
Lift The Vehicle And Position The Jack Stands
- Position your hydraulic floor jack under the correct jack point. Ensure the jack’s saddle (the lifting pad) is centered and making full contact.
- Pump the jack handle smoothly until the wheel is completely off the ground. Lift it a few inches higher than the maximum height of your jack stands in their lowest setting. This gives you room to position the stands.
- Carefully slide the jack stand under the vehicle, aligning it with your chosen jack stand point. Extend the stand’s post so its saddle or support head is just below the contact point on the car.
- Slowly and carefully lower the hydraulic jack just enough so the vehicle’s weight settles onto the jack stand. You should feel and see the car settle firmly onto the stand. Ensure the locking pin or mechanism is fully engaged in the stand.
Repeat this process for the second stand if you are lifting one end of the car. For maximum stability when lifting the entire front or rear, use two jack stands. Never rely on a single stand.
Perform The Stability Test
Before you even think about going under the vehicle, you must test the setup. With the car supported on the stands and the hydraulic jack still lightly touching the jack point (as a secondary backup), place your hands firmly on a solid part of the car, like the roof or a door frame.
Rock the car vigorously side-to-side and front-to-back. Watch the jack stands closely. They should not move, shift, wobble, or make any noise. The car should feel absolutely solid. If anything shifts, carefully jack the car back up, reposition the stands, and test again. Do not proceed until the setup is rock steady.
Secondary Safety Measures
For added security, especially for prolonged work, you can place the removed wheel and tire under the vehicle’s frame rail. If the worst happens and the car falls, it will land on the wheel, creating a small safety gap. Some mechanics also keep the hydraulic jack lightly loaded under the jack point as a final backup, but this is not a substitute for properly placed and tested stands.
Lowering The Vehicle Safely
When your work is complete, reverse the process with care. Clear all tools and parts from under the car. Ensure no one is near the vehicle.
- Raise the car slightly with the hydraulic jack just enough to take the weight off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands by pulling the locking pin and collapsing them, then slide them out from under the vehicle.
- Slowly and smoothly lower the hydraulic jack all the way until the tire is firmly on the ground.
- Remove the wheel chocks.
You have now completly secured your vehicle back on the ground. Double-check that you have retrived all your tools from the work area.
Common Mistakes To Avoid
Being aware of these frequent errors can prevent accidents.
- Using Cinder Blocks or Wood: These materials can crack, split, or crush without warning. Only use purpose-built, rated jack stands.
- Placing Stands on Unsafe Surfaces: Asphalt, dirt, and gravel are unstable. Always work on concrete or similarly solid pavement.
- Overextending Jack Stands: Do not use a stand at or near its maximum height extension. This reduces stability. Use taller-rated stands if you need more clearance.
- Ignoring Weight Ratings: Using stands rated for less than your vehicle’s weight is extremely dangerous. Always check the capacity.
- Skipping the Stability Test: Never assume the stands are set correctly. Always perform the rocking test.
Choosing The Right Jack Stands
Not all jack stands are created equal. Selecting the correct pair is the first step in safe operation.
Weight Capacity And Height Range
Check your vehicle’s GVWR. Choose jack stands with a per-stand capacity that exceeds half of your vehicle’s total weight. For example, a 4,000 lb SUV would require stands rated for at least 2 tons (4,000 lbs) per pair, but 3-ton (6,000 lb) stands would provide a safer margin. Also, consider the height range. Ensure the stands can lift the car high enough for your work but also low enough to fit under the jack points when collapsed.
Types Of Jack Stands
There are two main designs, each with its own locking mechanism.
- Pin-Style Stands: These have a series of holes in a vertical post. You lift the car, adjust the stand’s height, and insert a solid steel pin through the hole to lock it in place. They are known for their positive, unambiguous lock.
- Ratchet-Style Stands: These use a pawl and tooth system, similar to a socket wrench. You lift a lever to adjust the height, and the pawl drops into a tooth to lock. They allow for quicker, finer height adjustments. Ensure the pawl and teeth are not worn or damaged.
Both types are safe when used correctly and from a reputable brand. The choice often comes down to personal preference and specific design features.
Material And Build Quality
Look for stands made from heavy-gauge steel. The welds should be clean and consistent, without cracks or splatter. The base should be wide for stability. All moving parts should operate smoothly without sticking. Avoid stands with excessive rust or that feel lightweight and flimsy.
Specific Vehicle Scenarios
Different vehicles may require slight variations in technique.
Using Jack Stands With A Unibody Vehicle
Most modern cars are unibody construction, meaning they lack a full frame. The pinch weld along the side is often the designated jack point. Use a jack or stand with a groove or slot to cradle the pinch weld without bending it. You can also use a pinch weld adapter on your jack stand saddle. Always pad the contact point if you are not using a dedicated adapter to prevent damage to the car’s metal.
Using Jack Stands With A Truck Or SUV
These heavier vehicles have clear frame rails. Place the jack stands on the solid, flat sections of the frame, as close to the jack point as possible. Due to the higher ground clearance, you may need jack stands with a greater maximum height. Always use stands with a significantly higher weight rating than the vehicle’s curb weight.
Lifting The Entire Vehicle
To get all four wheels off the ground, you need four jack stands. This is an advanced procedure. Lift and secure one end of the car at a time (front, then rear). Always use the official jack points and ensure all four stands are on level ground and perfectly stable before testing. Extreme caution is required.
Jack Stand Maintenance And Storage
Taking care of your equipment ensures it remains reliable for years.
After use, wipe down the stands with a clean cloth to remove dirt and grease. Store them in a dry place to prevent rust. Periodically, check for any signs of damage, paying special attention to the locking mechanisms and welds. If a stand is ever involved in a drop or accident, retire it immediately. Its structural integrity may be compromised even if no damage is visible.
FAQ About Using Car Jack Stands
Can I Use Just A Jack Without Stands?
No, you should never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Hydraulic jacks can fail, leak, or settle. They are designed for lifting, not for prolonged, stable support. Jack stands are the only safe way to support a vehicle.
Where Is The Best Place To Put Jack Stands?
The best place is on the vehicle’s manufacturer-specified jack stand points, as detailed in your owner’s manual. If that information is not available, place them on solid, load-bearing parts of the frame or subframe, directly adjacent to the jack points used for lifting.
How Many Jack Stands Do I Need?
At a minimum, you need two jack stands to support one end of a car (both front wheels or both rear wheels). For maximum safety when working under the vehicle, using four stands to support the entire car is ideal. Never support a vehicle with only one jack stand.
What Is The Proper Way To Set Up Jack Stands?
The proper way involves chocking the wheels, lifting from a correct jack point, positioning the stand under a solid support point, lowering the vehicle onto the stand, engaging the lock, and then performing a vigorous stability test before approaching the work area.
Are Old Jack Stands Safe To Use?
Old jack stands can be safe if they are in excellent condition. You must throughly inspect them for structural rust, cracks, bent metal, and proper operation of the locking mechanism. Many manufacturers have issued recalls for certain models; check if yours are affected. When in doubt, replace them. Your safety is worth the investment in new, reliable equipment.