Learning how to do a burnout in an awd automatic car is a common goal for many driving enthusiasts. Attempting a burnout in an AWD automatic car demands specific techniques to overcome the drivetrain’s traction systems. Unlike rear-wheel drive vehicles, all-wheel drive cars are engineered for maximum grip, making a traditional burnout much more difficult.
This guide provides clear, step-by-step instructions. We will cover the necessary preparations, the specific techniques, and the important safety and legal considerations you must understand.
It is crucial to recognize that this activity puts extreme stress on your vehicle. Proceed with caution and full awareness of the risks involved.
How To Do A Burnout In An Awd Automatic Car
Executing a burnout in an AWD vehicle requires you to temporarily defeat the car’s stability and traction control systems. The core principle involves using the parking brake to lock the rear wheels while applying power to overcome the front differential’s resistance. Not all AWD systems are the same, so results will vary.
The following sections break down the entire process from preparation to execution.
Essential Preparations And Safety Checks
Never attempt a burnout without proper preparation. Rushing into this can lead to immediate mechanical failure or an accident. Your first step is always to ensure both you and your car are ready.
Find a completely empty, paved, and legal area. An abandoned private parking lot or a sanctioned drag strip are the only appropriate locations. Public roads are illegal and dangerous.
Perform these vehicle checks before anything else:
- Tire Condition: Use old, worn tires you don’t mind destroying. Burnouts generate immense heat and will ruin tire tread quickly.
- Fluid Levels: Check engine oil, transmission fluid, and coolant. The drivetrain will be under severe thermal stress.
- Brake System: Ensure your parking brake is in perfect working order. It must be able to firmly hold the rear wheels.
- Drivetrain Health: If your car has existing transmission or differential issues, a burnout will likely cause catastrophic failure.
Finally, clear the area of all people, animals, and debris. Have a plan for how to stop safely and what to do if you lose control.
Disabling Electronic Aids
Modern AWD cars come with sophisticated electronic stability control (ESC) and traction control (TCS). These systems are designed to prevent wheel spin. You must deactivate them to have any chance of performing a burnout.
Consult your owner’s manual for the specific method to turn off these systems. Often, a single press of the TCS button only partially disables it. A full disable might require holding the button for several seconds or a specific sequence.
Be aware that on some vehicles, especially performance-oriented models, the systems may reactivate automatically if they detect severe slip or a certain driving mode. You may need to put the car in a specific performance or “race” mode for the electronics to stay off.
Never physically remove fuses or disconnect sensors to disable these systems for a burnout. This can cause error codes, malfunctioning brakes, and unsafe driving conditions.
Understanding Your AWD System Type
Your technique depends heavily on whether your car has a full-time or on-demand AWD system. Full-time systems send power to all wheels constantly, while on-demand systems are typically front-wheel drive until slip is detected.
Cars with a center differential or a transfer case (like many Subaru or older Audi models) behave differently than those with a front-biased, electronically controlled clutch pack system (common in many crossovers). Research your specific model to set realistic expectations.
The Step-By-Step Burnout Procedure
Once preparations are complete, you can attempt the burnout. Follow these steps carefully and in order. Remember, smooth inputs are better than aggressive, jerky ones.
- Drive to your pre-selected, safe, and open area.
- Bring the car to a complete stop. Keep your foot firmly on the primary brake pedal.
- Fully engage the parking brake. Pull it up as hard as you can to lock the rear wheels. Some electronic parking brakes may not allow this technique.
- With your right foot still on the brake, shift the transmission into Drive (D). For more torque, some cars may respond better in a lower gear like “2” or “L” if available.
- Slowly begin to press the accelerator with your right foot while maintaining pressure on the brake with your left foot. This is called “power braking.”
- You will feel the engine strain against the brakes. Gradually increase throttle until you feel the front wheels begin to overcome the brake hold and start spinning.
- As the front wheels spin, you can slightly modulate the brake pressure to control the burnout. Releasing the brake entirely will cause the car to launch forward.
- To end the burnout, simply lift off the throttle completely and reapply the brake firmly with your right foot. Disengage the parking brake.
This method uses the parking brake to isolate the rear wheels and the primary brakes to hold the car, allowing the front differential to receive power and spin the front tires. It may not work on all AWD systems, particularly those with strong electronic intervention or a rear-biased power distribution.
Common Challenges And Troubleshooting
You will likely encounter problems on your first few attempts. This is normal. Here are common issues and how to adress them.
- Car Won’t Spin Tires: The traction control may not be fully disabled. Try the full disable sequence again. The parking brake may not be strong enough; ensure it’s fully engaged. The surface may offer too much grip; try a slightly dustier or smoother pavement.
- Car Stalls or Jerks Violently: This usually means the brakes are applied too hard, or the throttle input is too aggressive. Try a smoother, more gradual application of both pedals.
- Only One Front Wheel Spins: Many AWD systems use an open front differential. Power will go to the wheel with the least resistance. A limited-slip front differential (LSD) is needed for both front wheels to spin evenly, but these are rare in stock AWD automatic cars.
- Burning Smell: This is normal to some degree and is likely the clutch packs in the transmission or differential overheating, or the brake pads. If the smell is severe or you see smoke not from the tires, stop immediately and let the car cool.
If the car consistently refuses to break traction, it may be mechanically incapable of a sustained burnout without modifications. Forcing it can lead to expensive damage.
Risks And Potential Damage To Your Vehicle
Performing burnouts is an abusive activity for any car, but especially for complex AWD drivetrains. You must accept the following risks before you try.
The transmission and torque converter endure extreme heat and shock load. Automatic transmissions are particularly vulnerable to fluid overheating, which can destroy clutches and bands inside the gearbox.
The center differential and transfer case components are stressed as they try to send power to wheels that are being artificially held. Premature wear or sudden failure is possible.
Brake components, especially the parking brake cables and rear brake pads/calipers, are subjected to forces they weren’t designed for. This can lead to stretched cables or warped components.
Constant velocity (CV) joints and axles can fail under the sudden, high-torque load. Engine mounts may also tear from the severe rocking motion. The financial cost of repairing a broken transmission or differential far outweighs the brief thrill of a burnout.
Legal And Ethical Considerations
Beyond mechanical risks, there are serious legal implications. Performing a burnout on public property is illegal in virtually every jurisdiction.
You can be cited for reckless driving, exhibition of speed, disturbing the peace, and causing a public nuisance. Penalties include heavy fines, license suspension, and even impoundment of your vehicle.
The thick smoke produced is also an environmental pollutant. Burning rubber deposits harmful chemicals and particulates on the road and into the air. Always consider your surroundings and the community.
The only ethical place to perform this activity is at a closed-course, sanctioned event like a drag racing “burnout box” or on private property with the explicit permission of the landowner.
Frequently Asked Questions
Here are answers to some common questions about AWD burnouts.
Can You Do A Burnout In Any Awd Car?
No, not every AWD car can perform a burnout. It depends on the strength of the drivetrain, the type of AWD system, and the effectiveness of the electronic controls. Many modern SUVs and crossovers with on-demand AWD will simply not allow it without significant modification or defeating systems in an unsafe manner.
Is A Line Lock Available For Awd Cars?
Traditional line lock systems, which electronically lock the front brakes for burnouts, are designed for rear-wheel drive drag cars. They are generally not available or effective for AWD vehicles. The technique using the parking brake and power braking is the most common method for AWD automatics.
Will A Burnout Damage My Awd System?
Yes, there is a high probability of causing accelerated wear or immediate damage. The stress is not normal operating condition for the transmission, differentials, and brakes. Even a successful burnout shortens the lifespan of these components.
How Can I Make Burnouts Easier On My Awd Car?
There are no safe modifications to make burnouts “easier” on an AWD system. Performance modifications like a transmission cooler or a upgraded torque converter might handle the heat better, but they do not change the fundamental stress placed on the drivetrain. The best practice is to limit burnout attempts to an absolute minimum.
What Is The Difference Between A Burnout And A Launch?
A burnout is spinning the tires while the car remains mostly stationary to heat the tires for better traction. A launch is accelerating from a stop with minimal wheel spin. In an AWD car, a high-performance launch is often possible, but a sustained burnout is more difficult and stressful on the vehicle.