If your Honda Accord won’t start sometimes, you’re dealing with a common but frustrating issue. Understanding the Honda Accord Intermittent Starting Problems is the first step to a reliable car.
These problems can leave you stranded without warning. The good news is that many causes are simple to diagnose and fix. This guide will walk you through the most common culprits and solutions.
Honda Accord Intermittent Starting Problems
An intermittent start means your Accord might start fine one time and then fail the next. The key symptom is inconsistency. You might hear a clicking sound, a slow crank, or nothing at all when you turn the key or push the button.
Pinpointing the exact cause requires a methodical approach. We’ll start with the simplest and most common issues before moving to more complex systems.
1. Battery and Electrical Connection Issues
A weak battery or poor connection is the top cause of intermittent no-starts. The battery provides the massive surge of power needed to turn the starter motor.
When it’s failing, it might have just enough juice sometimes but not others. This is especially true in extreme hot or cold weather.
- Corroded or Loose Battery Terminals: White, blue, or green crusty buildup on the terminals prevents a good electrical connection. Even if the battery is strong, the power can’t get to the starter.
- Weak or Old Battery: Batteries typically last 3-5 years. As they age, they lose their capacity to hold a full charge and provide cranking amps.
- Parasitic Drain: Something in the car might be drawing power when the ignition is off, slowly draining the battery overnight.
How to check:
- Visually inspect the battery terminals for corrosion. Clean them with a wire brush and a solution of baking soda and water.
- Tighten the terminal clamps. They should not wiggle at all.
- Get your battery tested for free at most auto parts stores. They will check its voltage and cranking amps under load.
- Check the battery cables themselves for damage or internal corrosion.
2. Failing Starter Motor
The starter motor is what physically turns the engine over. Inside it, there are components like brushes and solenoids that wear out over time.
When a starter begins to fail, it often works intermittently. You might hear a loud “clunk” with no crank, or a single click. Sometimes, tapping the starter lightly with a hammer can temporarily get it to work—a sign its internal contacts are worn.
Signs of a bad starter:
- A single loud click when you turn the key, but no engine cranking.
- Grinding noises during starting (could also be a flywheel issue).
- The starter spins but doesn’t engage the engine (a “freewheeling” sound).
3. Faulty Ignition Switch
The ignition switch is the electrical gateway that sends power to the starter, fuel pump, and ignition system when you turn the key. It sees a lot of mechanical wear from years of use.
A worn ignition switch can cause very random starting problems. The car might not start, or it might start and then immediately stall because power to the fuel pump was cut.
Diagnosis can be tricky. Sometimes, wiggling the key while it’s in the “on” position can make the dash lights flicker, which is a clue. Professional testing of the switch’s electrical outputs is often needed.
Main Relay (PGM-FI) Failure
This is a classic Honda issue from the 1990s and early 2000s Accords, but it can affect newer models too. The main relay, or PGM-FI relay, controls power to the fuel pump and engine computer.
When it fails, often due to cracked solder joints inside, the car will crank but not start. The failure is often heat-sensitive. The car may not start when hot but will start again once it cools down.
Replacing the main relay is usually inexpensive and can be done by a handy DIYer, as its often located under the dash.
4. Problems with the Fuel System
For the engine to run, it needs fuel delivered at the right pressure. Intermittent failures here will usually result in a car that cranks strongly but never fires up.
- Fuel Pump Failure: A weak fuel pump may work sometimes and not others. Listen for a brief humming sound from the rear of the car when you first turn the key to “on.” No sound can be a sign of pump failure.
- Clogged Fuel Filter: A neglected filter can restrict flow enough to cause starting issues, especially under demand.
- Bad Fuel Pressure Regulator: This can cause starting problems when the engine is hot or cold.
5. Faulty Sensors (Crank/Cam Position Sensors)
Modern engines rely on sensors to tell the computer the engine’s position and timing. The crankshaft and camshaft position sensors are critical for start-up.
If either sensor fails intermittently, the engine computer won’t know when to fire the spark plugs or inject fuel. The engine will crank but not start. These sensors can fail when they get hot and then work again when they cool, creating a confusing intermittent pattern.
6. Security System and Key Issues
If your Accord has an immobilizer system, a problem with the key or the system itself can prevent starting. The car will crank but the engine will be disabled.
Signs include a flashing security light on the dash. Try using a spare key if you have one. Sometimes, the transponder chip in the key can fail or the signal from the key isn’t being read properly by the immobilizer ring around the ignition.
How to Diagnose Your Accord Step-by-Step
Follow this logical sequence to narrow down the problem. Always start with the simplest solution.
- Listen and Observe: When the no-start happens, what do you hear? A click? A slow crank? A normal crank but no start? This is your biggest clue.
- Check the Battery: Have it load tested. Inspect and clean the terminals and cable ends thoroughly.
- Test for Power: When the problem occurs, check if headlights are bright. Do they dim significantly when you try to crank? If yes, it points to a battery/connection issue. If they stay bright, it points to a starter, switch, or solenoid issue.
- The “Tap” Test (for starters): If you hear a single click, have an assistant gently tap the starter motor body with a hammer or wrench while you try to start. If it starts, the starter is failing.
- Check for Spark and Fuel: If the engine cranks but won’t start, you need to see if it’s a spark or fuel issue. This requires some basic tools and caution. A mechanic can do this quickly.
- Scan for Codes: Even if the check engine light is off, there might be pending codes related to crankshaft/camshaft sensors or the immobilizer. A professional scan tool can reveal these.
Preventative Maintenance Tips
You can avoid many of these problems with regular care.
- Keep your battery terminals clean and tight.
- Replace your battery every 4-5 years, or at the first sign of weakness.
- Follow your manual’s schedule for replacing the fuel filter.
- Address small electrical gremlins immediately, like occasional dash light flickering.
- Have your charging system (alternator) checked when you get your battery tested.
When to Call a Professional Mechanic
If you’ve checked the battery and connections and the problem persists, it’s time for expert help. Electrical diagnosis requires specialized tools and knowledge.
A mechanic will have tools to test starter draw, fuel pressure, sensor signals, and switch continuity. They can also perform a parasitic draw test to see if something is draining your battery overnight. This can save you hours of guesswork and the cost of throwing unneeded parts at the car.
FAQ Section
Q: Why does my Honda Accord sometimes not start but then starts later?
A: This is the definition of an intermittent start problem. The most common causes are a dying battery with poor connections, a starter motor on its way out, or a failing ignition switch. Heat-sensitive parts like the main relay or crankshaft sensor can also cause this.
Q: What does it mean if my Accord clicks but won’t start?
A: A single, solid click usually points to the starter motor or its solenoid. A rapid series of clicks typically indicates a weak battery or very poor battery connection that can’t deliver enough current.
Q: Can a bad alternator cause intermittent starting?
A: Not directly. A bad alternator fails to charge the battery while driving. This leads to a dead battery, which then causes a no-start. So, the alternator is the root cause of the dead battery, but the immediate no-start is due to the battery.
Q: Why won’t my Honda start in the rain or damp weather?
A: Moisture can get into electrical connections or components, causing shorts or increased resistance. Check for cracked spark plug wires, a cracked distributor cap (on older models), or exposed wiring. Battery terminal corrosion can also be aggravated by moisture.
Q: Is an intermittent starting problem expensive to fix?
A: It depends. A battery or terminal cleaning is inexpensive. A starter motor replacement is a mid-range repair. Electrical diagnosis from a mechanic has a cost, but it pinpoints the issue, saving you money on unnecessary parts in the long run. Ignoring it can lead to a tow truck bill, which adds to the cost.
Dealing with a car that won’t start reliably is stressful. By understanding these common causes of Honda Accord intermittent starting problems, you can approach the issue with a clear plan. Start with the simple checks like battery health and connections. If the problem is more elusive, don’t hesitate to seek a professional diagnosis to get your Accord back to its dependable self.