Learning how to store a car long term is essential if you need to park your vehicle for months or years. Preparing a car for long-term storage involves more than just parking it; it’s about preserving its mechanical integrity for years. Whether you’re deploying overseas, storing a classic car for the winter, or simply not using a vehicle, doing it wrong can lead to expensive repairs. This guide will walk you through every step to ensure your car starts right up when you need it again.
How To Store A Car Long Term
Long-term car storage is a process. It requires a methodical approach to protect the engine, fuel system, battery, tires, and interior from deterioration. Rushing or skipping steps can result in rust, seized brakes, or a dead engine. The following sections provide a complete checklist, broken down into manageable tasks you can complete in a weekend.
Choosing The Right Storage Location
Where you store your car is the first and most critical decision. The ideal environment protects the vehicle from the elements and temperature extremes.
Indoor Vs. Outdoor Storage
Indoor storage is always superior. A private garage, storage unit, or rented warehouse space shields the car from sun, rain, snow, and animal intruders. If indoor storage isn’t available, a high-quality, breathable car cover designed for outdoor use is non-negotiable. Never use a plastic tarp directly on the paint, as it traps moisture and causes mold and scratches.
Climate-Controlled Facilities
For valuable, classic, or exotic cars, a climate-controlled unit is worth the investment. Stable temperature and humidity levels prevent rubber from drying out, electronics from degrading, and metal from corroding. This is especially important in regions with high humidity or extreme seasonal changes.
Preparing The Exterior For Storage
A thorough exterior cleaning is not just about cosmetics. It removes corrosive elements like road salt, bird droppings, and tree sap that can permanently damage paint and chrome during storage.
- Wash and Dry Completely: Give the car a full wash, including the undercarriage to remove salt and grime. Hand-dry it thoroughly to prevent water spots.
- Apply a Protective Wax or Sealant: A fresh coat of high-quality wax or ceramic sealant creates a barrier against moisture and dust. This step is crucial even for indoor storage.
- Clean and Treat Rubber Seals: Wipe down door, window, and trunk seals with a rubber protectant. This keeps them pliable and prevents them from sticking to the door frames.
Preparing The Interior For Storage
A clean interior prevents odors, mold, and pest damage. You want the cabin to be as dry and unattractive to critters as possible.
- Remove All Personal Items: Take out food wrappers, maps, and any other belongings.
- Vacuum Thoroughly: Crumbs and dirt attract insects and rodents.
- Clean and Condition Surfaces: Wipe down vinyl, leather, and plastic with appropriate cleaners. Condition leather seats to prevent cracking.
- Place Moisture Absorbers: Put a few containers of silica gel or commercial moisture absorbers inside the cabin and trunk to control humidity.
- Set Up Rodent Deterrents: Consider placing dryer sheets, peppermint oil sachets, or commercial rodent repellents under the seats and in the engine bay. Avoid mothballs inside the cabin due to their pervasive odor.
Essential Mechanical Preparations
This is the heart of long-term storage. Neglecting these steps can lead to the most severe and costly mechanical failures.
Changing The Oil and Filter
Used engine oil contains contaminants and acids that can corrode internal engine components over time. Always change the oil and filter right before storage, not after. Fresh oil is clean and protective.
Managing The Fuel System
Stale fuel can gum up fuel lines, injectors, and the carburetor. For storage under 12 months, fill the tank completely with premium fuel and add a fuel stabilizer. This prevents air space in the tank where condensation can form, leading to rust and water in your fuel.
- Add the correct amount of stabilizer to a near-empty tank.
- Drive the car for 10-15 minutes to circulate the treated fuel throughout the entire system.
- Then, top off the tank with more premium fuel to its full capacity.
For storage exceeding a year, consult a mechanic about draining the fuel system entirely.
Maintaining Proper Fluid Levels
Check and top off all other fluids: coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid, and transmission fluid. Some experts recomend a slight overfill of coolant to account for any minor evaporation. Ensure your windshield washer fluid is topped up with a solution rated for the lowest expected temperature.
Preventing Flat Spots On Tires
Tires can develop permanent flat spots from bearing the car’s weight in one position. The best solution is to place the car on jack stands, taking the weight completely off the suspension and tires. If that’s not possible, inflate tires to their maximum pressure rating (found on the tire sidewall) to reduce sidewall flex. Move the car forward or backward a few inches every month if you can to shift the contact patch.
Battery Care During Storage
A car battery will discharge and sulfate if left connected. For any storage over a month, you have two good options.
- Disconnect the Battery: Simply disconnect the negative (black) terminal. This stops any parasitic drain from the car’s computer or alarm. The battery will still slowly self-discharge.
- Use a Battery Maintainer: This is the preferred method. A “trickle charger” can overcharge, but a smart maintainer (or float charger) monitors the battery and provides a small charge only when needed. Connect it to the battery terminals (or a dedicated port) and plug it in for the duration of storage.
Final Steps Before Locking It Up
You’re almost done. These last steps ensure the car is secure and ready for its long rest.
Protecting The Engine Cylinders
In very humid climates or for multi-year storage, removing the spark plugs and squirting a small amount of fogging oil into each cylinder can prevent internal corrosion. Crank the engine a few times (with the plugs still out and fuel pump disabled) to coat the cylinder walls, then reinstall the plugs.
Positioning The Parking Brake
Do not set the parking brake for long-term storage. The brake pads or shoes can fuse to the rotors or drums. Instead, place the car in gear (manual) or “Park” (automatic) and use wheel chocks front and back to prevent rolling.
Blocking Exhaust and Intake Openings
To deter rodents and insects, stuff steel wool or secure breathable mesh over the tailpipe and air intake. Steel wool works well because rodents cannot chew through it. Remember to remove all blockages before starting the car.
Covering The Vehicle
Even indoors, a soft, breathable, cotton car cover protects from dust and accidental scratches. Ensure the car is perfectly clean and dry before putting the cover on. For outdoor storage, a weatherproof, breathable cover is an absolute necessity.
The Storage Period And Reactivation
Your job isn’t completely over once the car is stored. Periodic checks and a proper reactivation procedure are key.
Periodic Checks During Storage
If possible, visit the car every few months. Check for any signs of pests, leaks, or a deflating battery maintainer. Look for moisture inside. This is also a good time to run the air conditioning for a few minutes if you can start the car, to keep seals lubricated.
Preparing To Drive Again
When you’re ready to bring the car back to life, follow these steps:
- Remove any covers from the exhaust, intake, and air filter box.
- If you used jack stands, carefully lower the car and set tire pressures to the recommended door-jamb spec.
- Reconnect the battery (if disconnected) and ensure terminals are tight.
- Perform a visual inspection under the hood and under the car for animal nests, chewed wires, or fluid leaks.
- Turn the key to the “On” position for a few seconds without starting, to let the fuel pump prime the system.
- Start the engine. It may crank a bit longer than usual. Let it idle and reach normal operating temperature.
- Check all fluid levels again and top off if needed.
- Test the brakes carefully before driving. They may be rusty or have a slight grab initially.
- Plan for an oil change soon after reactivation, as the fresh oil you put in has now absorbed contaminants from sitting.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long can you store a car without starting it?
With proper preparation as outlined above, a car can be stored safely for years without being started. In fact, starting it briefly and not letting it fully warm up can cause more harm than good, as it introduces moisture into the oil and exhaust system without burning it off.
What is the best thing to put under a car in storage?
For indoor storage on a concrete floor, use plastic sheeting or a dedicated car storage mat under the tires. This prevents moisture from the concrete from wicking into the tires and causing dry rot. For outdoor storage, consider parking on gravel or wood planks rather than dirt or grass.
Should I change the oil before or after long term storage?
Always change the oil and filter before storing the car. Fresh oil lacks the acids and contaminants found in used oil, providing better protection for your engine’s internal components during the storage period.
Is it better to store a car with a full tank of gas or empty?
Store the car with a full tank of gas treated with a fuel stabilizer. A full tank leaves less air space for condensation to form, which prevents water from accumulating in your fuel tank and causing rust.
How do I protect my car battery from dying in storage?
The most effective method is to connect a smart battery maintainer (trickle charger). If that’s not possible, disconnect the negative battery terminal. Even disconnected, the battery may slowly discharge, so charging it every few months is advisable.