So you’ve got a K20 engine and you’re thinking about forced induction. You’re in the right place. The question on every Honda enthusiast’s mind is: What Supercharger For K20? The answer isn’t always simple, but for max power and a specific kind of performance, one option consistently rises to the top.
This guide will cut through the noise. We’ll look at the types of superchargers available, compare them to turbocharging, and zero in on the best unit for maximum horsepower on your K20. You’ll get clear, step-by-step advice on the setup, installation basics, and supporting mods you absolutely need. Let’s get straight to it.
What Supercharger For K20?
For maximum power potential on a K20 engine, the centrifugal supercharger from Vortech or ProCharger is widely considered the top choice. While roots-type blowers (like the Jackson Racing kit) offer fantastic low-end torque and a classic feel, the centrifugal design is the king of high-RPM, top-end horsepower, often supporting 500+ whp on built engines. It’s the preferred route for all-out power goals.
Supercharger Types: Roots vs. Centrifugal
Understanding the two main types is key to choosing whats right for your goals. They work and feel completely different.
Roots-Type Superchargers:
* How they work: These are positive displacement blowers. They trap air and push it directly into the manifold, providing boost almost instantly from very low RPM.
* Feel & Power Band: You get massive low-end and mid-range torque. The power hits hard right off idle, making the car feel incredibly punchy on the street.
* Common K20 Kit: Jackson Racing is the most famous name here. Their kits are known for reliability and OEM-like integration.
* Max Power Ceiling: Generally lower than centrifugal systems. They can create more heat (heat soak) at higher boost levels, which limits ultimate power.
Centrifugal Superchargers:
* How they work: They function like a turbocharger, using an impeller to compress air. Boost is RPM-dependent—low boost at low RPM, building linearly to peak boost at redline.
* Feel & Power Band: It feels like a larger, naturally aspirated engine. The power builds smoothly and keeps pulling harder and harder to the redline. This is where you find max horsepower numbers.
* Common K20 Kits: Vortech and ProCharger are the leaders. They are often sold as complete kits by companies like KraftWerks.
* Max Power Ceiling: This is their biggest advantage. Centrifugal superchargers are more efficient at creating higher boost levels (15+ psi) with less heat, making them the clear winner for “max power.”
Why a Centrifugal Supercharger Wins for Max Power
If your goal is the highest possible dyno number and top-end charge, here’s the breakdown:
1. Higher Efficiency at High Boost: Centrifugal compressors are better at moving large volumes of air at higher pressure ratios (boost levels) without excessive outlet temperatures. Cooler air means you can add more timing and fuel for more power safely.
2. Scalability: The system is simple to upgrade. A pulley change (smaller diameter) increases boost. Pair that with larger fuel injectors, a boost-referenced fuel pressure regulator, and proper tuning, and you can significantly raise your power level.
3. Heat Management: They typically generate less intake air heat at peak boost compared to a roots blower working hard. This often means you can run a simpler intercooler setup or, in some cases, just a good air-to-water unit.
4. Proven Big Power Results: It’s not uncommon to see well-built K20 blocks with centrifugal superchargers making 500-700+ wheel horsepower. This is the platform of choice for high-horsepower, drag-oriented K20 builds.
The Essential Supporting Mods (The “Fuel” for the Fire)
A supercharger alone is a great way to break an engine. Max power requires a solid foundation. You cannot skip these.
Before or During Installation:
* Fuel System: The factory pump and injectors will not suffice. You need:
* High-flow fuel pump (Walbro 255 LPH is a bare minimum).
* Larger fuel injectors (ID1050x or larger are common for big power).
* A boost-referenced fuel pressure regulator (like from AEM).
* Engine Internals: The stock K20 rods are the weak point.
* For over ~350-400 whp, forged rods are mandatory.
* For over 500 whp, you need a fully built short block (forged rods, pistons, upgraded bearings).
* Clutch: The stock clutch will slip immediately. A performance clutch or a multi-plate setup is required to handle the new torque.
Tuning – The Most Important Part:
This is non-negotiable. You must have a professional tune using Hondata FlashPro or AEM Infinity. A proper tune manages air/fuel ratios and ignition timing to make power reliably. A bad tune will destroy your engine, regardless of how good your hardware is.
Step-by-Step: The Path to a Max Power K20 Supercharger Build
Follow this general roadmap to ensure a successful project.
1. Define Your Goal & Budget: Be realistic. 400whp is very different (and cheaper) than 600whp. The budget for supporting mods often exceeds the supercharger kit cost.
2. Build the Engine First (If Needed): If your goal exceeds the safe limit of the stock block, build the short block with forged components first. It’s cheaper than replacing a shattered engine later.
3. Source the Complete Kit: Purchase a complete centrifugal supercharger kit (Vortech/ProCharger) from a reputable supplier. A good kit includes the head unit, mounting bracket, intercooler, piping, and necessary hardware.
4. Upgrade the Fuel System: Install your chosen fuel pump, injectors, and regulator. This is best done with the supercharger installation.
5. Install the Supercharger Kit: Follow the instructions meticulously. Take your time with intercooler and piping placement. Ensure all couplers are tight and secure with proper clamps.
6. Get it Tuned Professionally: Once everything is installed and checked for leaks, tow the car to your tuner. Do not drive it hard, or even at all, without a base tune.
7. Enjoy & Maintain: After the tune, monitor your vitals (fuel pressure, air/fuel ratio). Change your oil more frequently and always use high-quality fuel.
Supercharger vs. Turbo for K20: A Quick Reality Check
Many ask, “Why not just go turbo for max power?” It’s a valid question.
* Turbocharger: Can make even more peak power and torque, often for less money upfront. Offers tunable boost characteristics (via wastegate). However, they bring more complexity (oil/coolant lines, wastegate, downpipe), significant under-hood heat, and often more lag.
* Centrifugal Supercharger: Provides a linear, predictable power delivery that feels very natural in a high-revving Honda. It’s generally simpler to install (often no oil line modifications), and the power band complements the K20’s character perfectly. For many, the driving experience is preferable, even if the absolute peak number is slightly lower than an equally sized turbo.
The choice often comes down to personal preference and the intended use of the car.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Learn from others errors so you don’t make them yourself.
* Skipping the Fuel System Upgrades: This is the #1 cause of lean conditions and blown engines.
Ignoring the Tune: The ECU must be recalibrated for the massive increase in airflow. No exceptions.
* Using Low-Octane Fuel: You will need 93 octane or race fuel. Using 87 octane with boost will cause destructive detonation.
* Forgoting About Drivetrain Upgrades: The stock transmission is strong, but axles can become a weak link at very high torque levels.
* Rushing the Installation: A boost leak from a poorly fitted coupler can cause driveability issues and lost power. Double-check everything.
FAQ: Your K20 Supercharger Questions Answered
Q: What supercharger is best for a stock K20?
A: For a stock K20A2 or similar, a Jackson Racing roots-type kit or a base Vortech centrifugal kit at lower boost (6-8 psi) is safe with proper fuel and tune. This can yield 300-350whp reliably. Pushing beyond that risks the stock rods.
Q: How much horsepower can a supercharged K20 make?
A: On a fully built engine with a large centrifugal supercharger, 600-800 wheel horsepower is achievable. On a stock-block K20 with low boost, a realistic safe number is 320-380whp.
Q: Is a supercharger kit hard to install on a K20?
A: Most complete kits are designed for direct bolt-on installation. A mechanically inclined person with standard tools can do it in a weekend. The most complex parts are often the intercooler mounting and fuel system upgrades.
Q: What’s more reliable, a supercharger or turbo?
A: Both can be extremely reliable if installed and tuned correctly. Superchargers have fewer external plumbing and heat management concerns, which some consider a reliability advantage. Turbos have fewer moving parts in the head unit itself. Proper support mods and tuning dictate reliability more than the forced induction type.
Q: Do I need an intercooler with my K20 supercharger?
A: Absolutely, yes. An intercooler (air-to-air or air-to-water) is critical for reducing intake air temperature. Cooler air is denser, makes more power, and is safer for the engine by reducing the chance of detonation.
Choosing the right supercharger for your K20 ultimately depends on your power goals and driving style. But when the question is specifically about extracting the maximum possible power from that legendary four-cylinder, the path leads directly to a high-boost centrifugal supercharger system. Paired with a built engine, serious fuel system upgrades, and expert tuning, it’s the proven formula for turning your K20 into a absolute powerhouse. Remember, the key to success is building a solid foundation—don’t let the supercharger itself become the only focus of your project. Plan carefully, invest in the necessary supporting parts, and you’ll have a incredibly powerful and responsive engine that does the K-series legacy proud.