If your Honda Accord’s rear brakes are sticking, you know the problem. It feels like the car is dragging, fuel economy drops, and you might even smell something hot after a drive. This common issue is frustrating but often has a simple fix you can handle yourself. How Do You Fix Honda Accord Sticky Rear Brakes? The solution usually involves cleaning and lubricating the caliper slides and the parking brake mechanism, which we’ll walk you through step-by-step.
Sticky brakes are more than just an annoyance. They cause premature pad and rotor wear, reduce your gas mileage, and create excess heat that can damage other components. Ignoring it leads to costly repairs. The good news is that with basic tools and an afternoon of work, you can likely solve the problem and restore smooth, safe braking.
How Do You Fix Honda Accord Sticky Rear Brakes
This guide will cover the most effective DIY repair. We’ll focus on the integrated parking brake system used in many Accord models, where the piston must be screwed back in, not just pushed. Safety is paramount, so we’ll start with the essential preparations.
Understanding Why Your Accord’s Rear Brakes Stick
Before you start turning wrenches, it helps to know what your up against. The rear brakes on most Honda Accords combine the service brake (your foot pedal) and the parking brake into one caliper. This design is reliable but has a few common failure points.
- Caliper Slide Pins: These allow the caliper to float and apply pressure evenly. When their rubber boots tear or the grease dries out, they corrode and seize.
- Parking Brake Mechanism: Inside the caliper, a threaded piston and actuating lever can become gummed up with old, contaminated brake fluid or rust.
- Collapsed Brake Hose: A rare but serious issue where the rubber hose internally collapses, acting like a check valve and holding pressure on the brake.
- General Corrosion: Lack of use or harsh winter road salt can cause parts to rust together.
Tools and Supplies You’ll Need
Gathering everything beforehand makes the job smoother. Here’s your checklist:
- Jack and jack stands (NEVER rely on the jack alone)
- Lug wrench
- Basic socket and ratchet set (including a 12mm, 14mm, and 17mm typically)
- C-clamp or a large pair of channel-lock pliers
- Needle-nose pliers
- Flat-head screwdriver
- Brake cleaner spray
- High-temperature synthetic brake grease (silicone-based)
- Disc brake caliper slide pin grease
- Wire brush
- Turkey baster or syringe (for fluid)
- Small container for brake fluid
- New brake fluid (DOT 3 or 4)
- Safety glasses and gloves
Step 1: Safely Jack Up the Car and Remove the Wheel
Park on a level, solid surface and engage the parking brake on the front wheels (use wheel chocks if you have them). Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheel you’re working on before lifting the car. Then, jack up the car and secure it firmly on a jack stand. Now you can fully remove the lug nuts and take the wheel off.
Step 2: Inspect and Identify the Issue
With the wheel off, take a good look. Spin the rotor by hand. If it’s hard to turn or won’t spin freely, the brake is stuck. Check the condition of the brake pads and rotor for excessive or uneven wear. Look at the rubber boots on the caliper slide pins – if they’re torn, that’s a likely culprit.
Step 3: Remove the Caliper
First, you need to detach the caliper from its bracket. There are usually two bolts on the backside that hold the caliper to the slider pins. Remove these bolts using your socket set. Carefully lift the caliper off the rotor. Do not let it hang by the brake hose! Suspend it from the suspension with a piece of wire or a bungee cord.
Step 4: Remove the Brake Pads and Caliper Bracket
Now, the brake pads can be wiggled out of the caliper bracket. Next, remove the two bolts that secure the caliper bracket to the wheel hub. This will allow you to take off the bracket and access the rotor. Sometimes the rotor is rusted to the hub; tapping it gently with a rubber mallet around the center can free it.
Step 5: Clean and Lubricate the Slide Pins and Bracket
This is a critical step. Take the slide pins out of the caliper bracket. Clean them thoroughly with brake cleaner and a rag. Use your wire brush to clean the holes in the bracket where the pins sit. They should be shiny and smooth. Apply a generous amount of disc brake slide pin grease to each pin and re-insert them. They should slide in and out with gentle finger pressure – no sticking.
Step 6: Service the Caliper Parking Brake Mechanism
Here’s the key step for Accords. Look at the back of the caliper. You’ll see the parking brake lever and a rubber boot covering the actuating arm. Carefully peel back that boot. You’ll need to retract the caliper piston, but it doesn’t push in – it screws in. You can use a special “cube” tool or needle-nose pliers placed in the piston’s notches. Turn the piston clockwise while applying steady pressure until it’s fully retracted. Clean all around the lever area with brake cleaner.
Step 7: Reassemble the Brakes
Reverse the disassembly process. Put the rotor back on the hub. Mount the caliper bracket over the rotor and torque its bolts to spec. Insert the brake pads into the bracket. Before putting the caliper back, apply a thin smear of high-temperature brake grease to the metal backing plates of the pads where they contact the bracket (avoid the friction material!).
Now, carefully press the caliper over the new pads and rotor. Align the slide pins with their holes and push the caliper into place. Hand-thread the caliper bolts, then torque them to your vehicle’s specification.
Step 8: Check Brake Fluid and Bleed (If Needed)
When you retract the piston, the brake fluid in the master cylinder will rise. Use your turkey baster to remove some fluid from the reservoir so it doesn’t overflow. Check the fluid level; old, dark fluid should be replaced. If you opened the bleeder valve during the process or the fluid is very old, you should bleed that brake line to ensure there’s no air.
Step 9: Reinstall Wheel and Test
Put the wheel back on, hand-tighten the lugs, lower the car to the ground, and then torque the lug nuts in a star pattern. Before driving, pump the brake pedal several times until it feels firm. This moves the piston back into contact with the pad. Start with a slow, careful test drive. Listen for noises and test the brakes at low speed. Ensure the parking brake engages and releases properly.
When to Call a Professional
This DIY fix addresses the most common causes. However, if you find any of the following, it’s time for a pro or new parts:
- The caliper piston will not screw back in at all (seized caliper).
- The slide pins are pitted or corroded beyond cleaning.
- The brake hose is cracked, bulging, or leaking.
- The rotor is severely scored or worn beyond its minimum thickness.
- You’re not comfortable with any part of the process – brakes are a critical safety system.
Preventative Maintenance Tips
To avoid sticky brakes in the future, incorporate these habits:
- During every tire rotation (every 5-7k miles), have the slide pins pulled, cleaned, and re-greased.
- Change your brake fluid every 2-3 years as recommended. Moisture in the fluid causes internal corrosion in the caliper.
- Use your parking brake regularly, even in an automatic. This keeps the mechanism moving.
- After driving through deep water or car washes, apply the brakes gently to dry the components.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
What are the symptoms of a stuck rear brake on a Honda Accord?
You’ll notice a dragging sensation, reduced acceleration, poor gas mileage, a burning smell from the wheel, and excessive heat from the rear rotor after driving. The car may also pull slightly to one side during braking.
Can I just spray lubricant on my sticky brakes?
No! Never spray a general lubricant like WD-40 on brake components. It will contaminate the pads and rotors, causing them to fail. Only use designated high-temperature brake greases.
Why won’t my Accord’s rear brake piston push in?
Because it’s designed differently than the front. The rear piston on most Hondas must be rotated and pushed simultaneously to thread it back in. Forcing it with just a clamp will damage the caliper.
How much does it cost to fix sticky brakes at a shop?
If it just needs cleaning and lubrication, a shop might charge 1-2 hours of labor. If a caliper or hose needs replacement, parts and labor can range from $300 to $600 per wheel.
Is it safe to drive with a slightly sticky brake?
It is not recommended. The constant friction generates immense heat, which can boil your brake fluid (causing complete brake failure), damage the wheel bearing, or even start a fire in extreme cases. Address it promptly.
Fixing sticky rear brakes on your Honda Accord is a very achievable DIY project. By methodically cleaning and lubricating the slide pins and servicing the parking brake mechanism, you can restore proper function, save money, and gain the satisfaction of solving a common problem. Remember to always prioritize safety, use the right tools and lubricants, and don’t hesitate to seek professional help if the job seems beyond your comfort level. With this guide, you’re equipped to tackle the repair and get your Accord rolling smoothly again.