If you own a 2011 Honda Element, you know it’s a uniquely practical and beloved vehicle. However, like any car, it has its share of known trouble spots. This guide covers the most common 2011 Honda Element problems and provides clear solutions to keep your boxy friend on the road for years to come.
Understanding these issues early can save you time, money, and frustration. We’ll look at everything from minor annoyances to more serious mechanical concerns. Our goal is to give you the knowledge you need to address problems effectively, whether you’re a DIY enthusiast or just want to be informed when talking to your mechanic.
2011 Honda Element Problems
The 2011 model year, being the last production year, benefits from many refinements but still shares common flaws with earlier generations. Let’s break down the primary areas where owners frequently report issues.
Engine and Performance Issues
The 2011 Element’s 2.4-liter i-VTEC four-cylinder engine is generally reliable. But a few specific problems can crop up as the mileage increases.
One frequent complaint involves rough idling or hesitation during acceleration. This is often traced back to two main culprits.
* Faulty Spark Plugs and Ignition Coils: Worn spark plugs or failing ignition coils are a prime suspect. They can cause misfires, which trigger the check engine light and lead to rough running.
* Dirty or Failing Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: This sensor measures air entering the engine. If it gets dirty or fails, it sends incorrect data to the engine computer, disrupting the air-fuel mixture.
Another notable issue is excessive oil consumption. Some owners report the engine burning more oil than expected between changes. Regularly checking your oil level—every other fuel fill-up is a good habit—is crucial to prevent engine damage from low oil.
Transmission and Drivetrain Concerns
The automatic transmission in the 2011 Element is mostly robust, but it’s not without its quirks. Manual transmissions are less common but have fewer reported issues.
A common gripe is a rough or delayed shift, especially from first to second gear. This can sometimes be improved with a simple fluid change if the fluid is old or burnt. However, if the problem is severe, it might indicate wear on internal components like solenoids or clutch packs.
For 4WD models, a issue with the rear differential is worth mentioning. Owners sometimes report a whining or humming noise coming from the rear, particularly at highway speeds. This often points to worn bearings inside the differential. Ignoring this noise can lead to complete failure.
Body, Interior, and Electrical Gremlins
The Element’s utilitarian interior is a big part of its charm, but some components don’t always hold up perfectly.
Door Lock Actuators: This is perhaps the most frequent interior problem. The power door lock actuators, especially for the tailgate, are known to fail. You might hear a clicking sound but the lock won’t move, or it might work intermittently. Replacing the actuator is the only fix.
Tailgate Handle: The plastic exterior tailgate handle is another weak point. It can become brittle with age and snap off, leaving you unable to open the tailgate from the outside. Fortunately, replacement handles are readily available.
Electrical Oddities: Intermittent electrical issues can occur. Examples include:
* Dashboard lights flickering.
* Power windows acting slow or stopping.
* Key fob remote range becoming very short.
These are often caused by a weak battery, corroded ground connections, or a failing alternator not providing consistent voltage. Checking the battery terminals and main ground points is a good first step.
Climate Control Problems
The air conditioning system can lose its cool over time. The most common failure is the A/C compressor clutch. You might hear a loud squeal or grinding from the compressor when the A/C is turned on, or it simply blows warm air. Recharging the system might help temporarily, but compressor replacement is often the final solution.
On the heating side, some owners face issues with the heater fan (blower motor) making loud squeaking or rattling noises. This is usually due to debris in the blower cage or a failing motor bearing.
Suspension, Steering, and Brakes
As a 2011 model ages, wear on suspension components is inevitable. You’ll notice the ride becoming less comfortable and possibly hear new noises.
Front Lower Control Arm Bushings: These are a common wear item. When they deteriorate, you may hear a clunking noise over bumps and notice vague steering, especially during braking. Replacing the bushings or the entire control arm restores tightness.
Sway Bar Links and Bushings: Worn sway bar end links and bushings create a distinct knocking or rattling sound when driving over uneven pavement. They are inexpensive and relatively easy to replace.
Brake Issues: Beyond normal pad and rotor wear, a frequent complaint is warped front brake rotors. This causes a pulsating vibration in the brake pedal when slowing down from higher speeds. Turning the rotors (if thick enough) or replacing them with higher-quality units solves the problem.
Rust and Paint Concerns
While Honda’s paint quality improved by 2011, some Elements can still show signs of wear. The most common areas for rust to start are:
* The trailing edge of the rear wheel arches.
* Around the windshield molding.
* On the underside, especially if the vehicle was driven in snowy regions with road salt.
Regular washing, including the undercarriage in winter, and addressing stone chips promptly are the best defenses.
Practical Solutions and Maintenance Tips
Knowing the problems is half the battle. Here are actionable steps you can take to prevent or fix these common issues.
Proactive Maintenance Checklist
Sticking to a rigorous maintenance schedule is the best way to avoid major problems.
* Oil Changes: Use a high-quality synthetic oil and change it every 5,000-7,500 miles. Check the oil level every 1,000 miles due to potential consumption.
* Transmission Fluid: Change the automatic transmission fluid every 60,000 miles using only Honda DW-1 fluid. This is critical for smooth shifts and longevity.
* Differential Fluid (4WD models): Replace the rear differential fluid every 30,000 miles to prevent wear and noise.
* Coolant: Flush and replace the engine coolant every 60,000 miles or as specified in your manual.
* Spark Plugs: Replace spark plugs with the recommended NGK or Denso iridium plugs every 100,000 miles.
DIY Fixes for Common Issues
Some repairs are very manageable for a weekend mechanic.
1. Replacing a Tailgate Lock Actuator:
1. Remove the interior tailgate plastic panel.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector and the metal rod from the old actuator.
3. Unbolt the old unit and install the new one.
4. Reconnect the rod and electrical connector, then test before reassembling the panel.
2. Cleaning the Mass Air Flow Sensor:
1. Locate the MAF sensor in the air intake tube, just after the air filter box.
2. Carefully unplug its electrical connector and remove the two screws holding it in.
3. Spray it thoroughly with a dedicated MAF sensor cleaner (do not use anything else).
4. Let it air dry completely before reinstalling.
3. Addressing Sway Bar Link Noise:
1. Lift the front of the vehicle safely and support it on jack stands.
2. Locate the sway bar link connected to the strut and lower control arm.
3. Use wrenches to hold the link studs and remove the nuts.
4. Install the new links, tighten the nuts securely, and lower the vehicle.
When to See a Professional Mechanic
Some jobs require specialized tools and knowledge. It’s wise to consult a trusted mechanic for:
* Any internal automatic transmission repairs.
* Rear differential bearing replacement.
* A/C compressor replacement and system evacuation/recharge.
* Major engine work related to oil consumption (like piston ring issues).
* If you are unsure about any diagnostic or repair procedure.
Investing in a professional diagnosis for a check engine light, using a scan tool, can pinpoint the exact problem and save you from replacing parts unnecessarily.
FAQ: 2011 Honda Element
Q: What is the most expensive common repair for the 2011 Element?
A: Beyond major engine or transmission overhauls, replacing the A/C compressor and the related system work can be a costly repair, often ranging from $800 to $1,200 depending on labor rates.
Q: Are 2011 Honda Elements reliable overall?
A: Yes, they are considered very reliable vehicles. The 2011 model, in particular, benefits from years of refinement. Addressing its known weak points proactively contributes greatly to its longevity and many Elements reach 200,000 miles or more with proper care.
Q: Is the 2011 Honda Element good on gas?
A: Its fuel economy is average for its era. Expect around 20-22 MPG in city driving and 24-26 MPG on the highway. The boxy shape creates more wind resistance than a sleeker SUV.
Q: What should I check when buying a used 2011 Element?
A: Focus on these key areas: listen for rear differential whine (4WD models), test ALL power door locks repeatedly, check for rust around the wheel arches, feel for brake pedal pulsation, and ensure the A/C blows cold air immediately. Always request a vehicle history report and have a pre-purchase inspection done by a mechanic.
Q: Does the 2011 Element have timing belt or chain?
A: It uses a timing chain, which is designed to last the life of the engine and does not require scheduled replacement like a rubber timing belt. This is a significant maintenance advantage.
By staying aware of these common 2011 Honda Element problems and solutions, you can enjoy your versatile and character-filled vehicle for many more miles. Regular maintenance and addressing small issues before they escalate are the keys to a long and happy ownership experience. Remember, a well-cared-for Element is a truly dependable companion for all your adventures.