If your car feels like it’s pulling to one side or your tires are wearing out way too fast, you might be wondering how to adjust the camber. Is it necessary for your daily driver? Let’s get straight to the point.
Camber is the angle of your wheels when viewed from the front of the vehicle. If the top of the wheel leans in toward the car, that’s negative camber. If it leans out, that’s positive camber. This angle might seem small, but it has a huge impact on how your car handles and how long your tires last.
Getting it right can mean the difference between a car that feels planted and one that feels sloppy.
How To Adjust The Camber? Is It Necessary?- (Solved!)
The short answer is: it depends. For most people driving standard road cars, a basic camber alignment check is necessary as part of regular maintenance, but aggressive adjustment is not. However, for performance driving, off-roading, or if your car has been lowered, knowing how to adjust the camber becomes very necessary.
This article will show you why it matters, when you should do it, and exactly how it’s done.
What is Camber, Really?
Think of your legs. If your knees are knocking together, that’s like negative camber. If you’re bow-legged, that’s positive camber. Your car’s wheels have a similar stance. Engineers design a specific camber angle from the factory to balance tire wear, grip, and stability for normal driving conditions.
Zero camber means the wheel is perfectly vertical. This is great for even tire wear on a straight line. But when you turn, a perfectly vertical tire will actually lose contact patch. A little negative camber helps the tire stay flat on the road during cornering, improving grip.
Negative vs. Positive Camber: A Quick Guide
* Negative Camber (\/ \/): Top of the tire is in. Common in performance and sports cars. Improves cornering grip but can cause inner tire wear if too extreme.
* Positive Camber (/\ /\): Top of the tire is out. Sometimes used in off-road vehicles for stability. On a road car, it often indicates a problem and causes outer tire wear.
* Zero Camber (| |): Tire is perfectly vertical. Ideal for tire longevity on a car that mostly goes straight.
When is Camber Adjustment Necessary?
You shouldn’t just adjust camber on a whim. Here are the real reasons it becomes necessary.
1. After Suspension Modifications
This is the biggest reason. If you’ve lowered or lifted your vehicle, you’ve changed the suspension geometry. The control arms are at a new angle, which almost always throws the camber out of spec. A proper alignment with camber adjustment is absolutely necessary after any suspension height change.
2. Uneven or Rapid Tire Wear
Take a look at your tires. Is the inside or outside shoulder worn down much faster than the rest of the tread? That’s a classic sign of incorrect camber. If you want your new tires to last, fixing the camber is necessary.
3. Poor Handling Feel
Does the car feel unstable in a straight line? Does it pull persistently to one side, even on a flat road? While this can be caused by other issues, incorrect camber is a likely suspect, especially if the tire wear matches.
4. For Competitive Driving
Auto-crossers and track day enthusiasts often increase negative camber deliberately. This maximizes the tire’s contact patch during hard cornering. For them, fine-tuning camber is not just necessary, it’s critical for lap times.
5. After an Impact
Hitting a big pothole, curb, or having a minor accident can bend suspension components. This can knock your camber out of alignment. An adjustment (and likely part replacement) is necessary to get things straight again.
How to Measure Your Current Camber Angle
Before you think about adjustment, you need to know where you stand. You have a few options.
* Professional Alignment Shop: The best and most accurate method. They use optical or laser sensors.
* DIY Camber Gauge: You can buy a magnetic camber gauge. It attaches to your wheel hub or brake disc for a fairly accurate reading.
* Simple String Method: A low-tech check. Use a long, perfectly vertical level or a plumb bob against the wheel. Measure the gap at the top and bottom of the rim. A difference indicates camber.
How To Adjust The Camber: Step-by-Step Methods
Warning: This involves working under your car. Always use proper jack stands on a level surface. Safety first.
The method depends entirely on your car’s suspension design. Here are the most common ways camber is adjusted.
Method 1: Using Camber Bolts (The Most Common DIY Fix)
Many cars have factory slots or use special “camber bolts” (eccentric bolts) at the top or bottom of the strut mounting.
1. Loosen the Bolts: Safely lift the car and remove the wheel. Locate the strut-to-knuckle bolts. There are usually two. One may be an eccentric bolt.
2. Shift the Position: With the bolts loose, you can physically push or pull the top of the wheel in or out. You may need a pry bar for gentle persuasion.
3. Tighten to Spec: While holding the wheel in the new position, carefully tighten the bolts to the vehicle manufacturer’s torque specification. Do not overtighten.
4. Re-check and Repeat: Lower the car, bounce the suspension a few times, and re-measure your camber. Repeat the process until it’s within your desired range.
Method 2: Adjustable Camber Plates
Common on lowered and performance cars. These replace the top strut mounts and allow for a much wider range of adjustment, often from inside the engine bay or trunk.
1. Access the Plate: The plate is usually at the top of the strut tower. You might need to remove a cosmetic cover.
2. Loosen Locking Hardware: There will be locking bolts or nuts around the perimeter of the plate.
3. Rotate or Slide: Depending on the design, you either rotate the entire plate or slide the mounting point along a slot.
4. Secure and Verify: Once set, tighten all locking hardware securely and re-check your measurement.
Method 3: Adjustable Control Arms
For vehicles with multi-link or double-wishbone suspensions (common on trucks, SUVs, and some performance cars). The arm has threaded sleeves for length adjustment.
1. Locate the Arm: Identify the upper or lower control arm that has adjustable ends.
2. Adjust Length: Loosen the lock nuts on either end of the threaded sleeve. Turning the sleeve changes the arm’s length, which pivots the wheel in or out.
3. Lengthening the arm typically adds negative camber. Shortening it adds positive camber.
4. Lock It Down: Once set, hold the center sleeve steady and tighten the lock nuts against each other securely to prevent it from moving.
Method 4: Shim Adjustment
Used on solid axles and some older vehicle designs. Thin metal shims are added or removed between the axle mounting surface and the wheel hub or spindle.
This is less common on modern passenger cars but is straightforward: adding shims in one location changes the angle.
The Professional Alignment Process
For most people, a professional alignment is the best choice. Here’s what they do that DIY often misses:
1. Pre-check: They inspect tires, suspension, and steering components for wear or damage.
2. Compensation: They “compensate” the sensors for any wheel or rim imperfections. This is a step DIY methods usually skip.
3. Set the Ride Height: They often use ballast to simulate the driver’s weight.
4. Adjust in Order: They adjust caster first (another angle), then camber, then toe. This order is important because changing one can affect the others.
5. Final Report: You get a before-and-after printout showing all the angles.
What Happens If You Ignore Camber Problems?
Choosing not to adjust necessary camber has consequences:
* Costly Tire Wear: You’ll be buying new tires 2-3 times more often than you should. A set of tires is much more expensive than an alignment.
* Safety Risks: Poor handling, pulling, and reduced grip in corners or wet conditions compromise your safety.
* Poor Fuel Economy: Dragging a tire sideways from incorrect camber creates rolling resistance, hurting your MPG.
* Stress on Components: It puts extra strain on wheel bearings, ball joints, and other suspension parts.
FAQs About Camber Adjustment
How much does a camber adjustment cost?
A full alignment at a shop typically costs between $80 and $200. If your car needs special parts like camber kits or bolts, add $50-$300 for parts and extra labor.
Can I adjust camber at home accurately?
You can get it close for basic correction, but for precise, lasting results—especially after major changes—a professional alignment is highly recommended. Their equipment is far more accurate.
What’s the difference between camber and toe?
Camber is the vertical tilt of the wheel. Toe is whether the fronts of the wheels are pointed inward or outward relative to each other, like pigeon-toed or duck-footed. Toe is the most common adjustment for tire wear; camber is more for cornering grip.
Is negative camber bad for your car?
A little negative camber (like -0.5 to -1.5 degrees) is often beneficial. Extreme negative camber seen on some styled cars is bad for daily driving. It wears tires quickly, reduces straight-line braking grip, and can stress components.
How often should I check my camber?
Check it as part of your regular alignment schedule: every 2 years or 30,000 miles, whichever comes first. Check it immediately if you notice pulling, uneven tire wear, or after hitting a major pothole.
Will adjusting camber fix my steering wheel pull?
It can, especially if the pull is accompanied by uneven tire wear. However, a pull is more often caused by uneven tire pressure or issues with toe alignment. A full check is best.
Final Verdict: Solved!
So, is learning how to adjust the camber necessary? For the average driver, understanding why it matters is key, but paying a professional for a precise alignment is usually the smartest move. The adjustment itself is necessary in specific situations: after modifications, to correct abnormal tire wear, or to achieve specific handling goals.
Ignoring obvious camber issues is a false economy. The money you think your saving on an alignment will be spent many times over on premature tires. Start with a professional assessment, understand your car’s needs, and then decide if it’s a DIY project or a job for the experts. Your car—and your wallet—will thank you for it in the long run.