If you own a 2010 Honda Element, you know it’s a uniquely practical and friendly vehicle. However, like any car, it has its share of known trouble spots. This guide covers the most common 2010 Honda Element problems and gives you clear solutions to keep your boxy buddy on the road for years to come.
2010 Honda Element Problems
Understanding these issues is the first step to preventing costly repairs. We’ll break down each major problem, explain why it happens, and show you what you can do about it.
1. Excessive Oil Consumption and Burning
This is arguably the most widespread and serious issue for the 2010 model year. Many owners report the engine consuming a quart of oil every 1,000 miles or even less.
The root cause is typically faulty piston rings. These rings are designed to seal the combustion chamber and control oil. When they wear or fail, oil slips past them into the combustion chamber, where it gets burned up. You’ll often see blue-ish smoke from the exhaust, especially during acceleration.
Solutions and Steps to Take:
* Monitor Your Oil Religiously: Check your oil level at every other fuel fill-up. This is non-negotiable.
* Use the Correct Oil: Stick with a high-quality synthetic 5W-20 oil. Some owners find slightly heavier oils (like 5W-30) can help reduce consumption, but consult your manual first.
* The Permanent Fix: The only real solution is an engine rebuild or replacement to install new, updated piston rings. This is a major job. If you’re experiencing this, get a quote from a trusted mechanic.
* Check for Honda’s Policy: Honda issued a technical service bulletin (TSB 10-091) for 2006-2008 models, but some 2009-2011 owners have had success getting goodwill assistance from Honda. It’s worth contacting your local dealership with your VIN.
2. Faulty Door Lock Actuators
The power door locks, especially on the rear passenger doors, are notorious for failing. You’ll press the button on your fob or inside the car and hear a rapid clicking or grinding noise, or nothing at all.
The plastic gears inside the actuator motor strip over time. It’s more an annoyance than a safety issue, but it can leave you manually locking doors.
How to Fix a Door Lock Actuator:
1. Purchase a replacement actuator online (they are relatively inexpensive).
2. Remove the interior door panel carefully by prying off the trim and unscrewing fasteners.
3. Disconnect the electrical connector and the metal rod linked to the lock mechanism.
4. Unbolt the old actuator from the door frame.
5. Install the new actuator, reconnect the rod and wiring, and test before reassembling the panel.
3. Worn Suspension Components: Sway Bar Links and Bushings
The Element’s suspension takes a beating, and the sway bar end links and bushings are common wear items. When they go bad, you’ll hear a distinct clunking or knocking noise when going over bumps or turning.
This is a very common issue with a straightforward fix. The parts are cheap, but the labor can be moderate if you’re not DIY-inclined.
Identifying and Replacing Sway Bar Links:
* Listen for Clunks: Drive slowly over a speed bump or uneven pavement with your windows down. A loud “clunk” is the telltale sign.
* Visual Inspection: Jack up the vehicle and secure it. Grab the sway bar link and try to move it. If there’s any play or the rubber boots are torn, it needs replacement.
* Replacement: You’ll need a wrench set and possibly a special tool to hold the link. Soak the nuts in penetrating oil beforehand, as they are often rusted.
4. Air Conditioning (A/C) Compressor Failure
A failing A/C compressor is another frequent complaint. Symptoms include the A/C only blowing warm air, loud grinding noises from the compressor clutch, or the compressor seizing entirely.
In many cases, the compressor’s internal parts fail and send metal debris throughout the entire A/C system. This makes a simple compressor swap a much bigger job.
Steps for Addressing A/C Failure:
1. Diagnosis: Have a professional check the system pressure and for signs of compressor clutch engagement. A grinding noise usually means its toast.
2. Flush the System: If the compressor failed catastrophically, the entire system (condenser, lines, evaporator) MUST be flushed to remove debris. Skipping this will cause the new compressor to fail quickly.
3. Replace the Receiver/Drier: This component should always be replaced when the system is opened.
4. Consider a Kit: Many aftermarket suppliers offer complete repair kits with a compressor, drier, and sometimes a condenser.
5. Cracked and Leaking Engine Mounts
The 2010 Element uses hydraulic engine mounts that can crack and leak fluid over time. A bad mount causes excessive engine movement, leading to vibrations felt in the cabin, especially at idle or when shifting.
You might also hear a thud when shifting from Park to Drive or Reverse. Inspecting the mounts visually for cracks or collapsed rubber is the best way to confirm.
How to Replace an Engine Mount:
* Locate the Mounts: There are typically three or four: one on each side, one at the transmission, and sometimes a torque mount.
* Support the Engine: Use a jack with a wood block under the oil pan to carefully support the engine’s weight.
* Unbolt and Swap: Unbolt the mount from the engine and the frame. Install the new mount and torque the bolts to specification. Do not over-tighten.
6. Fading and Peeling Clear Coat Paint
The Element’s horizontal surfaces—the roof, hood, and top of the rear doors—are prone to clear coat failure. This starts as fading or hazing and progresses to peeling, leaving the dull base coat exposed.
This is primarily a cosmetic issues caused by sun exposure and environmental factors. Unfortunately, Honda’s paint from this era is known for this problem.
Your Options for Paint Repair:
* Prevention is Key: Regular washing, waxing, and using a UV-protectant sealant can delay the onset.
* Light Correction: If it’s just faded, a professional cut and polish might restore the shine temporarily.
* Repaint: The only permanent fix is to sand and repaint the affected panels. Get quotes from body shops.
* Wrap or Plastidip: As a less expensive alternative, consider a vinyl wrap or PlastiDip coating to cover the damaged areas.
7. Faulty Oxygen (O2) Sensors
A failing O2 sensor can trigger the check engine light (often codes P0420 or P0430 for catalyst efficiency) and cause poor fuel economy and rough running.
The Element has multiple sensors: upstream (before the catalytic converter) and downstream (after). Over time, they become contaminated or slow in their response time.
Replacing an O2 Sensor:
1. Use an OBD2 scanner to confirm which sensor is faulty.
2. Purchase the correct sensor (OEM or high-quality aftermarket).
3. Locate the sensor on the exhaust manifold or pipe. Apply penetrating oil to the sensor threads and let it soak.
4. Use a special O2 sensor socket to remove the old one and install the new. Be careful not to cross-thread it.
5. Clear the check engine light and take the car for a drive to let the computer recalibrate.
8. Power Window Regulator Issues
Like the door locks, the power window regulators can fail. The window may move slowly, make a straining noise, or stop working altogether.
The plastic rollers or the cable in the regulator mechanism wear out or break. It’s a common repair for many Honda vehicles of this vintage.
Fixing a Stuck Window:
* Diagnose: Listen for motor sound when you press the button. A motor whirring with no movement points to a broken regulator.
* Get the Right Part: Order a regulator assembly, which often comes with a new motor.
* Door Panel Removal: Similar to the door lock repair, you’ll need to remove the inner door panel to access the regulator bolts.
* Transfer the Motor: Sometimes you can transfer the old motor to the new regulator to save money, if the motor is still good.
Preventative Maintenance Tips for Your 2010 Element
Staying ahead of problems is cheaper than fixing them. Here’s a simple checklist:
* Oil Changes: Do them every 5,000 miles with full synthetic, and check the level weekly if you have consumption issues.
* Transmission Fluid: Change the automatic transmission fluid every 60,000 miles. Use only Honda ATF.
* Coolant: Replace the engine coolant every 60,000 miles or 5 years.
* Valve Adjustment: Honda recommends checking the valve clearance every 110,000 miles. A ticking noise from the engine is a sign it’s needed.
* Lubricate Door Seals: Keep the rubber door and sunroof seals conditioned with silicone spray to prevent sticking and tearing.
Is the 2010 Honda Element Still a Good Buy?
Despite these common problems, the 2010 Honda Element remains a fantastically versatile and reliable vehicle if it has been well-maintained. Its utility, easy-to-clean interior, and overall durability are legendary.
When looking at a used 2010 Element, ask for maintenance records, check for oil consumption history, and listen for suspension clunks. A pre-purchase inspection by a mechanic is worth every penny. Addressing these known issues proactively will ensure you get many more miles of service from your practical and quirky box on wheels.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
What is the most serious problem with the 2010 Honda Element?
The excessive oil consumption due to faulty piston rings is the most serious mechanical issue, as it can lead to engine damage if the oil level isn’t constantly monitored.
How long can a 2010 Honda Element last?
With proper maintenance and timely repairs, a 2010 Honda Element can easily last 200,000 to 300,000 miles. Their engines and transmissions are generally robust aside from the oil consumption flaw.
Are Honda Element parts expensive?
No, parts for the Honda Element are generally very affordable and widely available. Many suspension, engine, and electrical parts are shared with other Honda models like the CR-V, keeping costs down.
Does the 2010 Honda Element have transmission problems?
The automatic transmission in the 2010 Element is considered reliable. Most problems arise from neglecting fluid changes. Regular service is key to its longevity.
What does it mean if my Element’s check engine light is on?
Common causes for the check engine light include faulty oxygen sensors, a loose gas cap, or issues related to oil consumption affecting the catalytic converter. Always get the code read for an accurate diagnosis.
Is the Honda Element good in snow?
Yes, especially models with Real Time 4WD. With a good set of winter tires, the Element’s boxy shape and weight distribution make it a very capable vehicle in snowy conditions.