2007 Honda Rancher 420 Problems – Common Issues And Solutions

If you own a 2007 Honda Rancher 420, you know it’s a workhorse. But even the most reliable machines can develop issues over time. This guide covers the most common 2007 Honda Rancher 420 problems you might face. We’ll give you clear explanations and practical solutions to keep your ATV running strong for years to come.

The Honda Rancher 420 is famous for its durability. However, its age means certain components are now showing wear. Understanding these potential faults helps you catch them early. That saves you money and prevents bigger repairs down the road.

Let’s look at the typical trouble areas and how to fix them.

2007 Honda Rancher 420 Problems

The 2007 model year is generally solid, but a few patterns of issues have emerged. These problems often relate to the electrical system, fuel delivery, and drivetrain. Regular maintenance is key, but some parts are just prone to wear after 15+ years of service.

Electrical Gremlins and Starting Issues

One of the most frequent complaints involves electrical faults. These can be frustrating because they mimic other problems.

* Weak or Dead Battery: The original battery is long gone, but the charging system can fail. A weak battery causes slow cranking or no start.
* Solution: First, check the battery terminals for corrosion. Clean them with a wire brush and baking soda solution. If the battery is old, replace it. Use a multimeter to check the stator and regulator/rectifier output.

* Faulty Starter Solenoid: You hear a loud “click” but the engine doesn’t turn over. This is a classic sign of a bad solenoid.
* Solution: Locate the solenoid (usually near the battery). You can try tapping it lightly with a tool while someone presses the start button. If it engages, it’s failing. Replacement is straightforward and relatively inexpensive.

* Ignition Switch Failure: Intermittent power loss or complete failure to start can stem from the ignition switch.
* Solution: Bypassing the switch temporarily with a jumper wire can confirm the issue. Replacing the ignition switch assembly is the permanent fix.

Fuel System Troubles

Old fuel and clogged components are a major source of running problems, especially if the ATV has sat for a while.

* Clogged Carburetor: This is the #1 cause of poor running, hard starting, and stalling. The tiny jets inside the carb get blocked by varnish from old gas.
* Solution: A thorough carburetor cleaning is needed. You’ll need to:
1. Remove the carburetor from the ATV.
2. Disassemble it completely.
3. Soak all metal parts in a carb cleaner solution.
4. Use compressed air to blow through all the passages and jets.
5. Reassemble with a new gasket kit.

* Dirty Fuel Filter: The in-line fuel filter traps debris before it reaches the carb. It can become restricted.
* Solution: Locate the fuel filter (often in the fuel line under the seat or tank). It’s a clear or white plastic cylinder. If it looks dirty, replace it—it’s a cheap and easy part.

* Old Gasoline: Gasoline begins to break down and gum up the system after just 30 days.
* Solution: Always use fresh fuel. If storing the Rancher, add a fuel stabilizer and run the engine for 5 minutes. For an already-gummed system, you may need to drain the tank and start fresh.

Drivetrain and Transmission Concerns

The Rancher’s drivetrain is tough, but not invincible. Certain parts are known to wear.

* Worn Drive Shaft Splines: A significant issue on some models. The splines connecting the drive shaft to the front differential can wear out, causing a loss of 4WD and a clicking noise.
* Solution: This requires disassembly to inspect. If the splines are worn, you must replace the drive shaft and possibly the differential input shaft. Applying a high-quality moly grease during reassembly is crucial for prevention.

* Shifting Difficulties (ES Models): The Electric Shift Program (ESP) on some 2007 Ranchers can become balky. It may refuse to shift or shift harshly.
* Solution: Often, this is due to a misadjusted shift rod or a weak battery. Ensure the battery is fully charged. The shift rod adjustment is under the left side cover; follow the service manual procedure precisely. The shift motor itself can also fail.

* Noisy or Slipping Belt (AT Models): For automatic transmission models, the V-belt can wear or glazed.
* Solution: Inspect the belt for cracks, fraying, or a shiny surface. A worn belt needs replacement. Also check the clutch sheaves for wear and clean them with compressed air.

Brake and Suspension Wear

These are consumable parts that naturally degrade with use and time.

* Sticking or Dragging Brakes: Brake calipers can seize, especially if the ATV is used in mud and water. This causes dragging, overheating, and poor performance.
* Solution: Remove the caliper, clean the piston and slide pins thoroughly. Rebuild with new seals or replace the caliper if it’s too corroded. Always change the brake fluid every two years.

* Worn Wheel Bearings: A growling or humming noise that increases with speed often points to bad wheel bearings.
* Solution: Jack up the wheel and try to wobble it side-to-side. Any play indicates a bad bearing. Replacement involves removing the wheel, brake rotor, and hub to press the old bearing out and new one in.

Preventative Maintenance Checklist

Stopping problems before they start is the best strategy. Here’s a quick list for your 2007 Rancher:

* Change engine oil and filter annually or every 100 hours.
* Check and clean the air filter regularly—more often in dusty conditions.
* Grease all fittings (axles, suspension pivots) every few rides.
* Inspect tire pressure and tread before each use.
* Check brake pad thickness and fluid level seasonally.
* Keep the battery terminals clean and charged, especially over winter.

Troubleshooting a No-Start Condition

When your Rancher won’t start, don’t panic. Follow this logical sequence:

1. Listen: Is there a clicking sound? (Check battery/solenoid). Does it crank but not fire? (Check fuel/spark).
2. Check the Basics: Is there fuel in the tank? Is the fuel valve in the “ON” position? Is the transmission in “N” or the brake applied (for ES models)?
3. Test for Spark: Remove a spark plug, reconnect it to the wire, and ground it against the engine. Crank the engine and look for a bright blue spark.
4. Check for Fuel: Look into the carburetor throat and operate the throttle. You should see a squirt of fuel from the accelerator pump. Smell the exhaust while cranking for gas odor.
5. Compression: While the spark plug is out, do a quick compression check with your thumb. You should feel strong pressure pushing back.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: What is the most expensive common repair for the 2007 Honda Rancher 420?
A: Repairing worn drive shaft splines can be costly due to the labor involved and the price of the drive shaft and potential differential parts. Catching it early saves money.

Q: Is the 2007 Rancher 420 a good ATV to buy used?
A: Absolutely, if it’s been cared for. It’s a very reliable model. Just be prepared to adress the common age-related issues like carb cleaning, brake service, and possibly wheel bearings. A thorough inspection is key.

Q: Why does my Rancher backfire and run poorly?
A: This is almost always a fuel mixture issue. A clogged carburetor jet, a dirty air filter, or an intake leak are the usual suspects. Start with cleaning the carb and air filter.

Q: How do I know if my shift motor is bad?
A: If your ES model makes a grinding noise but won’t shift, or does nothing at all (no click, no grind), and the battery and shift rod adjustment are good, the shift motor is likely faulty.

Q: Can I still get parts for a 2007 model?
A: Yes, parts support for Honda ATVs is excellent. Many parts are available from Honda directly, and a huge aftermarket exists for common wear items like brakes, bearings, and cables.

Owning a 2007 Honda Rancher 420 is a rewarding experience. By understanding its common failure points, you can perform proactive maintenance. This keeps your riding time high and repair time low. Most fixes are within the reach of a home mechanic with basic tools. Remember, a little care goes a long way in preserving this classic ATV’s legendary capability. Always consult the official service manual for detailed instructions and torque specs for any major repair.